Our Italian Dream Trip Come True
written by Ellis and Eileen Levin
Once upon a time, we began a most memorable journey when we met Bill Gearhart of Classic Travel and Tours. He came to our house and filled our heads with the delights that await visitors to Italy. We were hooked and asked Bill to plan a structured, escorted tour. We discussed options and locations and the like. Bill asked a lot of questions to understand what we liked and showed us examples of some of the enchanting hotels that we could choose from.
With Bill’s help, we planned and planned through the fall of 2007. We decided to travel on the first three weeks of May 2008. We purchased the plane tickets and chose the hotels. The came a series of setbacks. While in Coronado, CA in January 2008, the quadriceps tendon in my left knee tore completely off. I returned home to New Jersey for surgery. When the knee was healed and the physical therapy about done, the doctor decided ligament tears in my right knee should be repaired. So in May it was back to the operating room; back to physical therapy. I hoped that was the end of that story. But it wasn’t. After struggling through the summer, having better weeks and more uncomfortable weeks, my trusty surgeon decided to see if my hips were causing my continuing discomfort. Sure enough, my right hip was disintegrating from avascular necrosis, too little blood getting to the joint. So in mid- November back I went to the operating room, the rehab hospital, and more visits to my now-good-friends the physical therapists.
Another dilemma: what to tell Bill Gearhart? He had patiently undone all of the 2008 planning and changed the dates for the hotels and tours to 2009. He helped us navigate Delta Airlines ticketing maze to re-book for May 2009. But would I be able to do a serious sightseeing trip less than six months after having a new hip installed? My wife made sure I worked hard in therapy. Bill arranged for drivers and helpers most everywhere and informed the guides of my limitations so they could plan accordingly. Bill, being the good salesman he is, assured me that the guides would plan everything to minimize the physical stress and assured me I would have a great time. When the final decision point was reached to send hotel deposits, we told Bill the mission was a go.
The journey began in earnest when the Town Car arrived in our driveway to carry us to Kennedy Airport. After an uneventful airplane ride, including lots of food, wine and movies, we arrived in the rather unremarkable airport in Venice. That was the last unremarkable venue we entered until we arrived at the Hilton hotel in the Rome airport on our way home.
A nice man collected our luggage, took us on a short drive and delivered us to the water taxi. A few minutes later, as we navigated the canals, I said “Wow” for the first of many, many times during the trip.
Besides the uniquely appointed room, the Hotel Londra Palace provided views of the bay and a multitude of boats, churches, and a leaning bell tower. The dining room offered a variety of breakfast offerings and gourmet dinners. The location a few blocks from Saint Mark’s Square allowed us to arrive quickly in the heart of Venetian art and history. Our guides in the Square, Morano, and Burano were knowledgeable and helpful and enhanced our experience. Morano and its glass were fascinating. A very heavy, colorful glass sculpture and sailboat now occupy a special place in our family room. Speaking of colorful, Burano is a delightful community of fishing boats, homes painted bright colors, and shops with homemade lace, scarves, and cookies. We closed the day with the obligatory gondola ride. Very nice. Very Venice.
The train ride to Florence on the EuroStar was very pleasant, True to Bill’s advice, the lunch in the dining car was fresh and tasty (a far cry from Amtrak food). Upon arrival in Florence, our new best friend Marcello was waiting on the platform for us. He whisked us off to the palace that was our home in Florence. Yep, the Palazzo Magnani Feroni was a palace in its prior life. The garden in the courtyard outside our suite was the perfect spot to enjoy the champagne and pastry the hotel management provided to honor my birthday. The outstanding tratorias nearby allowed us to sample a variety of local gastronomic specialties in relaxed, casual settings. Each dish was better than the last. And the wine...
Florence was fascinating. The churches, museums, art, and sculpture are almost overwhelming. The jewelry, clothing, and leather shops can be overwhelming too. There is even a shop with beautiful leather goods in the Church of the Holy Cross, maintained for the benefit of the monks. Who can resist a purchase that benefits the monks. Marcello helped us appreciate the sights and the history with his running commentary. He even took us to visit the beautiful synagogue in Florence’s Jewish quarter (we needed a balance with all of the churches we visited). The volume of Michelangelo’s finished and unfinished work collected in Florence’s museums and squares was eye-opening, or eye-popping, take your choice.
Next, we were off to the Tuscan countryside, starting pleasantly in the Chianti region. Our mission: taste as many Chianti and olive oil varieties as possible and still remember where we were, how beautiful the farms, vineyards, and towns are, and Marcello’s history and agriculture lessons. Lunch in the garden outside of the stables of a former castle high on a hill was delightful and delicious. The scenery, and Marcelo’s stories, competed with the food for our attention.
Next were a series of ascents to the hill-top towns and villages that give Tuscany its character. Each somewhat unique in the flavors of its food, the museums, churches, and shops lining its squares and the homes radiating from them. The narrow streets made travel in, out, and around the town interesting indeed. Marcello flawlessly navigated the minivan up, down, and around, occasionally reminding us that :”We have flexible cars in Italy.” As we drove from town to town, and occasionally stopped for a panoramic view of a beautiful valley, Marcello also regularly reminded us: “Everything is beautiful in Tuscany.” He also frequently regaled us with the benefits of travelling with Classic Travel from New Jersey.
Our accommodations in Tuscany, near the town of Cortona, were unique and fascinating. Il Falconer is the only place we ever stayed where the property’s namesake, a beautiful falcon named Lila, lived in a large hutch next to our bungalow. The scenery in front of our suite is like a postcard of Tuscany, complete with the occasional train chugging through the fields. On the other side of our suite is the brand new spa, with a variety of pools and treatment rooms. Like an oasis. And out the back window, what else but a vineyard. Talk about the Tuscan experience. Did I mention the natural alarm clock? As soon as the sun rose the roosters urged us not to waste time sleeping. (I think Bill sent them to make sure we didn’t miss anything.)
What else is really cool about Cortona? Besides the food at a few excellent tratorias in the old town, and the Gelato in the center of the “new” town, Marcello took us to see the home of Frances Mayes, author of “Under the Tuscan Sun.”
So it became Sunday and our itinerary directed us to Assisi. As we entered the ancient city, we encountered a classic sports car parade. A pleasant interruption. As we got to the square adjacent to the fort at one end of town, we found ourselves in the midst of a motorcycle rally. A nice way for the aficionados to spend a sunny Sunday. We then drove to the other side of town and the Basilica de San Francisco de Assisi. We toured the art and sculpture of the ground level, impressed with the beauty and symbolism. We next made our way to the upper level basilica and joined the worshipers for the 1:00 p.m. mass. How awesome to be in midst of this fresco-decorated church with a large choir and several priests chanting the mass. For a couple of Jewish folks from New Jersey, it was a moving experience.
Then on to Mothers’ Day brunch at a small hotel on the road between the old and new cities. (There’s no Mothers’ Day in Italy.) We had one of our most memorable meals thanks to the menu guidance from Marcello and the very pretty waitresses. Lasagna like we never tasted. Fish and veal seasoned and presented just right with fresh veggies and crispy bread.
If its Monday we must be in Umbria. More riding up and down hills to visit villages, view wineries, absorb history, and partake of the local food and wine. We learned that in this region the vino de casa would be white. Picking a pizzeria on the main square in Orvietta for lunch, the pizza con fungi was beautifully accompanied by a white wine with the restaurant’s private label. Our lunch table gave us a perfect view of a shop filled with wonderful ceramic creations. We continue to admire a few of those creations now on display in our dining room.
After lunch and shopping in Orvietta, next stop Roma. As Marcello navigated from the highway into the city we started to get a flavor of this special city. Some newer buildings, lots of old ones, and some ancient remains. How fascinating. Motorbikes everywhere. More large cars than in Florence or the countryside. More little Smart Cars than in Florence or the countryside. More stylish clothing adorning the populace, including those on motorbikes. After a short spin on the Via Veneto to get a flavor of “hip” Rome (must be, there’s the Hard Rock Café), we went through an ancient gate and followed the wall to the Hotel Splendide Royal and another warm reception. And another bottle of sparkling wine in our suite in honor of our anniversary. (Bill made sure every hotel celebrated our wedding anniversary. Another nice Classic Travel touch.)
After a brief shopping expedition harvested shirts, cufflinks, and a hat (aka international power shopping), we had to deal with a dining dilemma. We arrived in Rome armed with a list of at least a half-dozen restaurant recommendations from friends and the Classic Travel list. After a few minutes of contemplation, we took the easy choice: Marcello’s recommendation, Pomedorino, a few blocks from the hotel.
After the ample breakfast in the hotel, we armed ourselves with cameras and comfortable shoes for our Vatican visit. But first, we had to meet Jerry, Classic Travel’s representative in Rome. An interesting gentleman. Besides greeting visitors and providing guides, he also operates an import business, has a shop selling religious articles and art work less than a block from Saint Peter’s Square, and is co-owner of a brand new seafood restaurant, where he just happened to arrange for us to dine (and where the staff introduces you to your fish before it is cooked).
Manuela then took us to the city within a city that is the Galactic Headquarters of the Catholic Church. The sheer volume of paintings, statuary, tapestries, and other decorative items is almost incomprehensible. Manuela stopped to explain the significance of some of the more notable items and helped us absorb the history and meaning of at least a portion of the treasure. She described the stories Michelangelo told in the paintings in the Sistine Chapel in simple terms to gather the meaning meant to be conveyed when one visits this special place. After a quick lunch and visit to Jerry’s store, we took in the size and spirit of St. Peter’s Square. Did we mention that the Pope was on a road trip to Israel when we came calling? Bill and Nancy assured us they did not give the Pope advance warning of our visit.
Dinner that night was in a ristorante on the Classic Travel list for Rome. A fine choice with pleasant pasta, fresh fish, delightful desert, all enjoyed with a lemoncello finale. The entertainment was watching people try to park their cars around the fountain in the small square adjacent to the ristorante.
Another full day in Rome started with Lisa escorting us to the “old neighborhood.” The Forum, the arches, the Coliseum, then off to the Pantheon (Wow), the Trevi Fountain (Wow), a few more churches and obelisks. After all of this “power touring” we caught a late lunch in Rome’s Jewish “Ghetto,” a vibrant neighborhood of restaurants, shops, schools, and a beautiful synagogue; a place where we understood the language and culture. A walk along the river was a delightful end to the “touring” part of our day.
We completed the day with dinner in Jerry’s new seafood restaurant., once we found it. (the signs and address need some more prominence in the small street). The staff and the food were excellent. We were introduced to our fish before it went off to the kitchen to be cooked. We tried not to get too attached.
At 9:00 a.m. Thursday Renato, our guide and driver for the remainder of our trip, was waiting for us in the hotel lobby. After loading our growing pile of possessions into the van, we headed for Napoli. The city is a marked contrast with Rome. Rome is clean; Naples not so much. Rome’s people are sharp and fashionable; we did not see the same look in Naples. The cars and scooters are older-looking as well. We made a brief visit to the archeological museum, which also needs paint and maintenance, as a preface to visiting Pompeii. Back in the van just in time for a pizza lunch along the harbor, near an ancient fort, only a short distance from where pizza is believed to have been invented. Great pizza and sharper clientele in that neighborhood.
Next stop Pompeii. Considering that the visible portions of the city were dug out of the volcanic ash that buried it for more than 1700 years, it is a great example of the Romans’ city planning and construction skills. A physically challenging afternoon up and down the hills and along the cobblestone streets and sidewalks.
At the end of the tour, we took a welcome pause for fresh orange juice and lemonade (Pompeii’s version of an “Arnold Palmer”) before Renato pointed the van towards Sorrento. The afternoon sunlight cast beautifully contrasting light and shadow on the Tirennian Sea coastline. Both the landscapes and seascapes are breathtaking from the highway about half-way up the mountains.
After a brief tour of some of Sorrento’s pretty neighborhoods, we arrived at our home for the next five days, the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. We were warmly greeted by the staff, who recognized the look of folks who have been touring all day and promptly escorted us to our spacious, unique suite. The sparkling wine, fruit, and cookies awaiting us hit the spot. Dinner in the hotel’s outdoor dining room with views of Naples and the adjacent waterfront towns was delicious and pleasantly served.
The following day was unscheduled and allowed us to wander about central Sorrento, taking in the shops, churches, and enjoying interactions with the residents. Lunch on the square preceded rejuvenation in the hotel’s spa. My achy joints and muscles were pleased with the attention received from the masseuse. The relaxation continued with beverages on the hotel’s patio overlooking the sea and Sorrento’s Grand Marina. Coming and going below us were a variety of ferry boats and tenders from the two or three cruise ships moored in the harbor and a variety of pleasure craft. A delightful dinner at a nearby tratoria, complete with strolling mandolin player, topped off a delightful day.
Saturday was Capri day. After breakfast, we made our way to the marina using the ultra-convenient express elevator from the hotel patio, bought our tickets and boarded the ferry for the short ride to Capri. The area around Capri’s ferry marina is tacky touristy. The merchants are polite, but tacky. So after a short walk, we boarded the funicular for the “upper echelons,” where we found many interesting and unique shops and restaurants. When the fruits of our shopping started weighing us down, we sought out lunch. We asked a shopkeeper for a restaurant recommendation. His response: Every restaurant here is good. The ingredients were purchased this morning and are prepared to order. The spaghetti and lasagna we chose were delicious. Fortunately, we found ourselves with twenty minutes to kill after riding the funicular back to the marina. Just enough time to patronize a nearby gelato emporium.
Back to the Excelsior Vittoria’s patio and a refreshing beverage accompanied by a plate of chips and fresh olives. Sooo Italy. Sooo relaxing. Another tasty dinner in a nearby tratoria brought our day to a happy conclusion.
Sunday was one of the most special days of the trip. A day of viewing the Amalfi Coast from the water. Giovanni collected us at the hotel for a short, steep downhill ride to a marina and his beautiful 35-foot Sorrento-built cabin cruiser. The sun was high in the sky, the breeze was light and the water calm. Since we are boaters, we appreciated the appointments and comforts of our ride for the day. Giovanni was a wonderful guide. He has spent most of his life on the Coast and speaks perfect English (maybe because his wife in English). After a significant number of “Wow” moments from the scenery, we decided to “park” in Positano for a bit and walk on the beach, stop for a coffee, and check the inventory in a few shops. Then back to the boat, a little more cruising along the coast and then a great treat for lunch. Giovanni directed the captain to La Conca del Sogno with the big yachts. An awesome setting and melt-in-your-mouth food. Giovanni gave us a lesson for making fettuccini and the restaurant owner gave us a lesson in salt-crusted fish. (I liked the breaded, grilled vegetable appetizer the best.)
After all we ate, I was glad we had a nice, big boat to go back to. Not as big as most of the boats moored in the cove, but just fine for us. A smooth, sunny ride back along the coast to Sorrento, past the cruise ships and a four-masted schooner capped the day. Bill certainly hit the bull’s eye when he planned this day for us.
Monday we viewed the Amalfi Coast from land. The skinny, twisty road overlooking the coast was itself an adventure. Renato navigated deftly and gave us lessons in lemons, lemoncello, and olives, not to mention the villas built into the nooks and crannies of the Amalfi hills and valleys. Many more “Wow” moments as we came around curves in the road or emerged from a tunnel. We entered Positano from the land side today and wandered about the shops and hotels on the higher elevations. Pretty pastries in the bakeries. Large lemons in the soap and perfume shops. Every street on an incline to challenge my achy knees.
We passed through the town of Amalfi and went next to Ravello. Up and up we went to the top of the world. There were beautiful gardens, cute shops around the square, a variety of restaurants and the obligatory church, with pots of flowers bordering each of the 20 or so steps from the square to the large entry doors. After strolling in and around the square a bit, we rode a little higher up the mountain to a lovely hotel patio with a panoramic view of the coast and a perch above the clouds.
After lunch we returned to Amalfi to stroll the streets. We skipped the church in the square because of the steps (they are everywhere) and didn’t wander too far up the hills. But just our luck, a little way past the square we happened on a gelato shop. Perfect. Eat gelato and people watch. And I found a cute ceramic turtle to join the collection on my dresser.
Then back on the “highway” for our last night in Sorrento. Another pleasant dinner at Tasso. A little more shopping just in case we forgot something plus the duffel bag in which to pack some of the goodies we bought after we shipped two boxes home from Rome.
After our final Excelsior Vittoria breakfast, we had a few hours to enjoy the hotel’s gardens and a public park nearby. Such a pretty town. Such nice people. Such good scheduling by Classic Travel and Tours. Our vacation pretty much ended when the driver collected us and all of our stuff for the ride to the Hilton Hotel at the Rome airport. A couple hours on Italy’s version of the New Jersey Turnpike and the fantasy was over.
The Hilton might have still been in Italy, but the food was strictly from Hilton-ville. Another long airplane ride, including a return trip over the Alps (the best part), and (ouch) airplane food after 18 days of fresh Italian cooking, and we were back in the USA. After emerging from ICE-land at JFK, Jose and his town car brought us back to New Jersey.
So, were our dreams and expectations met? Yes. Were the hotels unique and their staffs way helpful and friendly? Yes. Was the food yummy and the wine monte bella? Si. Would we like to make another trip to Italy and see a few different cities and maybe explore more of Venice and Rome? Yes. And when we do, who will plan our trip? Bill and Nancy Gearhart and the rest of the team at Classic Travel and Tours.
Thanks for the memories.